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Can we effectively steer food systems towards more sustainable and inclusive directions if a large part is overlooked? The informal side of the food system – existing of street vendors, food traders, but also farmers selling their produce straight from the farm – plays an essential role in providing affordable, fresh and nutritious food to all kinds of consumers. But it is also perceived as traditional, chaotic, vulnerable, at times illegal, whereas formality is labelled modern, regulated and organized. Are these labels doing justice to such a multi-faceted and important reality for millions of people around the world?